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Contrary to
common belief, the written
word and surfing are not
mutually exclusive. Indeed,
written documentation of
surfing goes back as far as
Captain Cook’s ship
logs, and early chroniclers of
the sport include vexed
beginner Mark Twain and Jack
London, who was clearly
awestruck by the spectacle.
Today, surf literature is
served predominantly by
gorgeous coffee-table books
filled from stem to stern with
big brilliant photos and lean
expository text. For every
aspect of waveriding, there is
an authoritative
book—there’s even
Surf Movie Tonite!,
144 pages devoted entirely to
the rich (and very specific)
history of surf movie poster
art. Here, we have gathered
the best the genre has to
offer—titles that earn
their place on the bookshelf
of anyone enraptured by
waves.
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